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bed leveling

 HI

just tried my first big print. while leveling the bed I noticed 2 things.

something doesnt seem straight.:

If all is straight you would expect that if all 4 corners are level everything in between is also level, well this is not the case. 

the center is much higher, a few 0.1 mm ( I have to measure exactly yet but around 0.3mm, cold bed.) 

Also I noticed the left tip is a little shorter than the right tip.( is this normal?) 



5 people have this problem

Hello! I experienced the same. It seems like the beams holding the carriage are bent in the middle due to the weight. Is this a fault in the machine or can't we expect a higher precision? I thought working with a much thicker first layer you could compensate for the problem of sticking the large print to your bed. However, in the next layers the second extruder slightly hits the print every time it moves.

Hi, I also have the same issue (the center being higher). Already spent days measuring and came to the same conclusion.  I still have a ticket open for this.


The glass plate is level (checked it using a level & square) so it must be the X or Y axis.


Small prints are fine now BUT ONLY if I position them at the front of the plate and perform a calibration on only that area. If I then try to print it in the middle, it fails as there is a big difference in height.


Using the entire print area as advertised (and why I bought it in the first place) is NOT possible.


One extruder being lower as the other one is easily fixed. 

Hi Emmanuel,

From my ticket I heard this much deviation is possible, appearently. What you can do for large prints is printing with a raft in Simplify3D (this is a first layer of .4mm). This is what they told me. What I tried myself already is a first layer of .35mm. I did this in Repetier, with slic3r. It was only a small test, but it seemed to work better at least than starting with a .2mm layer.

 

I have measured my bed also and it seems to be higher in the middle too.

About .8 MM but that is a rough measurement as I am not sure how to exactly measure it.

I put a straight edge across the bed and you can see a definite gap.  I dont see this on other bots that I have.  I actually have a delta bot that was shipped to me with bad warped glass and the manufacturer replaced it, so I guess it can happen.


LOL

As I type this, I just heard back from Leapfrog - I reported my glass as warped and they are sending me a new one! - Didnt expect that quick response but they just asked me where to send it, no other questions or explination, so I assume they are aware of this problem???


Lets hope that one is flat and easy to install :-)


Anyone else get this type of response?


Thanks

You should count on the materials shrinking also

I think compared to my old Leapfrog Creatr, my Creatr HS has also got a quite curved bed. I told them my bed was curved as well but they did not send me a new one. I tried to very carefully adjust each bolt and it seemed like the curve got less. For calibrating the bed I used one of those devices with fixed thickness metal strips (used for car tires or something? I am not sure). You can just place the nozzle on several places above the bed, put the metal strip under the nozzle and adjust the screws until you can only remove the strip with some resistance. Do this again and again until you think you have got the best calibration possible.
But during the first three months of printing it got slowly worse and worse and now I actually need to calibrate it again. Maybe due to drift of the sensor or by the glass plate slightly bending more.

By the way, I doubt whether sending you a new glass plate helps you with your problem. All printers have a slightly bent building plate (although I do think the one Creatr HS has got quite a bent bed) and at some point you just have to deal with it. Just use a thicker first layer or something.

In the hope that my answer helped someone,

Marcel

 

FYI, I drilled out the threads in the bed and presto my curved bed was no longer, or at least, it is far less curved now. 


Also, the added benefit of not needing to re-calibrate the bed all the time, I haven't touch it since. 


I guess that there wasn't enough clearance for the screws, when the glass expands during heating, then it curved, drilling out the threads, gave  enough clearance.


This worked for me. 

You drilled out the threads in the metal? I guess it could work but if I do that I lose the warranty. It would be better if leapfrog made new glass plates with wider holes.

Also, I found out that the y-direction of the bed can only be used 28 cm and not 29 like they mention in the specs. Now I need to rotate my model a bit to still fit the bed, but it is curved, so it is really hard to make this work I guess.

 

Yes that is correct, I came to a position where I simply needed the printer to work. Sadly the printer in general do not meet my expectations, I bought it as a plug and play printer, but there has been so many variables on this printer that doesn't ad up, so I finally got tired on this particular I'll constructed feature and made my own modification. Don't get me wrong here, it's probably not easy to produce such a rather complex item as a 3d printer, especially in this fast growing market. But the reality is that this printer probably needs some serious re-work in order to function as advised, I simply don't have the time for this, nor going through the hassle of sending it back, and being left without printer. I simply need a printer to work, hence making my own adjustments as I go along.
I think - although many producers tell you the opposite - a really plug and play system is not really possible. I am following a course on additive manufacturing and even in the most expensive machines they got problems with all kinds of variables coming into play and beds that are not entirely straight. For example, even in the chip industry they have got problems with wafers being not flat on nanometer scale. However, I think in this printer are some very basic mistakes, not taking into account the expansion of the glass plate being one of them. I mean just giving the bolts bigger holes for example is a pretty easy solution. Furthermore, the images shown during printing falls off the screen, right now I can only see a 2 while it is on 22%. Also the remaining time is not very accurate at the start and if my room is too cold the heaters and motors are not working. Finally, the printing quality I got is not as good as with the leapfrog Creatr until now, but I don't know whether the software or the printer is the problem. But once it has started to print it is really realiable. I got maybe 100 prints or so almost without troubles. One time the duct for the cooling fan fell off and both the duct and the print were ruined. I printed a new one downloaded from thingiverse. The weird thing is btw that they made this duct of abs while the nozzle is about 220 degrees Celsius. So it melted a bit because of the heat. I removed the top side of the design and made one from aluminum foil so now it works like a charm again. One last point I like to mention is the fan cooling the nozzle, If I put the fan at 100% the actual temperature is around 10 degrees lower than the temperature set. Once my filament got stuck because of that which was really annoying.

These are my thoughts so far about the printer. The conclusion is it works but not as simple as they advertise.


 

Yes I also thought the creatr HS would be better, but I also found out it was a quick shot and some things aren't finished developed and some problems here and there. I call it a good beta. I also do my own changes but all that can be built back. If they consider and solve the actual problems, the next will be a good machine. 

Marcel there are plug and play machines, these are the pro machines. they really are plug and play 99% of the time, but no material choice, and very expensive material and machine. but it really is plug and play open STL and push print. seriously ( i have one at work) 

I am just going to try the trick with giving the glass bed more room to expand, I turned off 0.5mm of the diameter of the screws just where the glass plate sits, have to see if this helps.

Marc did your solution work? Could you elaborate on exactly what you did? Thanks

Marcel- based on what Jens said, instead of drilling threads into the bed and voiding the warranty, why not use smaller bolts. I just took them out and measured them, they're M6 bolts of 30mm height. If they're replaced with M5 bolts of the same height, and two nuts are used (above the glass plate and below the metal plate), then the threads in the metal plate become redundant and the height can be changed by tightening or loosening the lower nut. The glass plate might move around by a total of 1mm but after heating up the plate, theoretically the expansion would prevent that. This is just a theory. I plan to test it out. Does anyone see a problem with this solution? 

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