just tried my first big print. while leveling the bed I noticed 2 things.
something doesnt seem straight.:
If all is straight you would expect that if all 4 corners are level everything in between is also level, well this is not the case.
the center is much higher, a few 0.1 mm ( I have to measure exactly yet but around 0.3mm, cold bed.)
Also I noticed the left tip is a little shorter than the right tip.( is this normal?)
Hi, I also have the same issue (the center being higher). Already spent days measuring and came to the same conclusion. I still have a ticket open for this.
The glass plate is level (checked it using a level & square) so it must be the X or Y axis.
Small prints are fine now BUT ONLY if I position them at the front of the plate and perform a calibration on only that area. If I then try to print it in the middle, it fails as there is a big difference in height.
Using the entire print area as advertised (and why I bought it in the first place) is NOT possible.
One extruder being lower as the other one is easily fixed.
I have measured my bed also and it seems to be higher in the middle too.
About .8 MM but that is a rough measurement as I am not sure how to exactly measure it.
I put a straight edge across the bed and you can see a definite gap. I dont see this on other bots that I have. I actually have a delta bot that was shipped to me with bad warped glass and the manufacturer replaced it, so I guess it can happen.
As I type this, I just heard back from Leapfrog - I reported my glass as warped and they are sending me a new one! - Didnt expect that quick response but they just asked me where to send it, no other questions or explination, so I assume they are aware of this problem???
Lets hope that one is flat and easy to install :-)
Anyone else get this type of response?
You should count on the materials shrinking also
FYI, I drilled out the threads in the bed and presto my curved bed was no longer, or at least, it is far less curved now.
Also, the added benefit of not needing to re-calibrate the bed all the time, I haven't touch it since.
I guess that there wasn't enough clearance for the screws, when the glass expands during heating, then it curved, drilling out the threads, gave enough clearance.
This worked for me.
Yes I also thought the creatr HS would be better, but I also found out it was a quick shot and some things aren't finished developed and some problems here and there. I call it a good beta. I also do my own changes but all that can be built back. If they consider and solve the actual problems, the next will be a good machine.
Marcel there are plug and play machines, these are the pro machines. they really are plug and play 99% of the time, but no material choice, and very expensive material and machine. but it really is plug and play open STL and push print. seriously ( i have one at work)
I am just going to try the trick with giving the glass bed more room to expand, I turned off 0.5mm of the diameter of the screws just where the glass plate sits, have to see if this helps.
Marc did your solution work? Could you elaborate on exactly what you did? Thanks
Marcel- based on what Jens said, instead of drilling threads into the bed and voiding the warranty, why not use smaller bolts. I just took them out and measured them, they're M6 bolts of 30mm height. If they're replaced with M5 bolts of the same height, and two nuts are used (above the glass plate and below the metal plate), then the threads in the metal plate become redundant and the height can be changed by tightening or loosening the lower nut. The glass plate might move around by a total of 1mm but after heating up the plate, theoretically the expansion would prevent that. This is just a theory. I plan to test it out. Does anyone see a problem with this solution?
Please request a firmware download via the Ticket System